The Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia
Hidden for centuries in the remote highlands, about 700 kilometers north of Addis Ababa, the magnificent rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are not to be missed by today’s visitors. This group of eleven monolithic and semi-monolithic structures was carved directly into the stone of the mountainside at least 800 years ago.
With the largest monolithic church in the world; a maze of passageways and tunnels; intricately carved reliefs; and fabulous examples of icon paintings; the Lalibela churches were built by carving a massive rectangular trench around a solid stone block. This solid block was then hollowed out, leaving interior columns, windows, reliefs, etc. Other churches were carved in a similar fashion but leaving either one side or the roof attached to the surrounding stone. Not only the craftsmanship but also the sheer size of the churches is stunning. Medhane Alem, the largest, sits on 800 square meters and St. George is 15 meters deep.
The Lalibela Rock-hewn churches, located in the northern highlands of Ethiopia, stand as a testament to the ingenuity and devotion of medieval Ethiopian Christians. Carved entirely from solid rock in the 12th century under the rule of King Lalibela, these remarkable structures are considered one of the greatest architectural achievements in Africa
Yemrehana Kristos
Located at the end of a winding dirt road 42 kilometers from Lalibela, the church of Yemrehana Kristos sits in a shallow cave where it was constructed during the 11th or 12th centuries. Built of wood, stone, and marble, the architecture is quite different from the churches of Lalibela and the cave and adjacent forest create a very tranquil setting. Near the church, on the edges of the cave’s interior, lay the skeletal remains of hundreds of Orthodox Christians where they have rested for centuries. The ancient and hand-written texts held in almost every church were written in “Geez,” the language of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. A semitic language, Geez is the forerunner of modern day Amaharic.
Axum, Heart of an Ancient Empire
Once the hub of a great civilization that spread from East Africa, across the Red Sea, and into the Arabian Peninsula, Axum is home to some of the most significant archeological findings on the entire continent. Ethiopian and foreign scholars working in the region believe they’ve only hit the tip of the iceberg of artifacts and ruins waiting to be discovered.
The most obvious of Axum’s ancient wonders are the huge stele erected over 1,700 years ago. These massive pieces of solid stone were hauled four kilometers from a quarry, carved into obelisks, and then raised upright. How the Axumites were able to achieve such technological marvels remains a mystery. The tallest stele is 23 meters (75 feet) high; while one which lays shattered is 33 meters in length and weighs a staggering 500 tons.
Axum holds a profound significance in the history of Christianity as one of the earliest centers of the faith outside the Mediterranean region. Dating back to the 4th century AD, Axum embraced Christianity under the reign of King Ezana, making it one of the first Christian kingdoms in the world
King Ezana’s Stone
In the 4th century, the Axum King, Ezana, officially accepted Christianity making it the second country to recognize Christianity as an official religion. (Ezana learned of Christianity from his childhood tutor, a Syrian Christian named Frumentius). In the 1980’s a trio of farmers discovered an inscribed stone in their fields. Nearly 1,700 years old, the text boasts of Ezana’s victories in three languages: Geez, Sabaean, and Greek. As the inscription gives thanks to a pagan god it predates Ezana’s conversion.
Chapel of the Tablet in Axum
The Ethiopian Orthodox Church is the guardian of the Ark of the Covenant which is held in an Axum church. According to church history, the Ark was brought to Ethiopia from Jerusalem by Menelik, the son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba.
Gondar and Ethiopia’s Castles
In 1632, King Fasilidas proclaimed that Gondar, a previously obscure village, would become the site of the Empire’s new capital. The population consequently swelled to over 60,000 and for the next 250 years, the Kings of Ethiopia ruled from Gondar. Beginning with Fasilidas, a succession of Ethiopian kings built the castles that still occupy the heart of modern day Gondar. Known collectively as the Royal Enclosure or
“Fasil Ghebbi”, the castles have survived several wars, including air raids during World War Two. The site is easily accessible and recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.
On a Gondar hillside near the ruins of Qusquam Maryam (a church built by the Empress Mentewab) are a group of simple thatch-roofed huts that comprise one of the most important centers of learning for the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The sparse living conditions are intended to teach humility to the priests and deacons who arrive from all over Ethiopia to study here.
The Castles of Gonder, built by King Fasilidas and his successors in the 17th and 18th centuries, represent a remarkable architectural legacy in the heart of Ethiopia. These imposing structures, constructed from sturdy stone blocks and adorned with intricate carvings, served as royal residences and administrative centers during the height of the Gonderian Empire.
Debre Birhan Selassie
Near the Royal Enclosure is a small church with some of the finest examples of art of the Orthodox Church. Nearly every inch of the church’s interior has been beautifully painted. 80 cherubic angels look down from the ceiling while saints and demons line its walls. Built by King Iyasu in the late 17th century, Debre Birhan Selassie (meaning Light of the Trinity) was miraculously spared in the Mahdist War of the 1880’s when, according to legend, a swarm of bees held off the invading soldiers.
This region was once home to the Ethiopian Jews, who immigrated en masse to Israel in the late 20th century. Although only a few remain, their influence is still seen in the symbols, customs, and rituals of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
Harar, the Walled City of Eastern Ethiopia
Harar, with its 16th century walled “old city” of Jugal, is quite distinct from Ethiopia’s other historical sites with their strong connections to Orthodox Christianity. While Christianity was introduced and accepted by the nation of Ethiopia very early, Islam also arrived at the outskirts of the Ethiopian Empire not long after Mohammed began spreading his faith on the nearby Arabian Peninsula. At one time, non-Muslims were
forbidden from the old city, but today, all visitors are most welcome to walk its alleyways with their unique homes, colorful markets, and numerous mosques.
Harar, a city steeped in history and cultural significance, is renowned for its impressive defensive walls, which encircle its ancient core. Constructed in the 16th century during the reign of Emir Nur, these formidable walls stretch for over 3.5 kilometers and are punctuated by five historic gates, each bearing its unique architectural features and historical significance.
Feeding the Hyenas
Every night just beyond the old city’s walls, hyenas gather to be fed by a brave Harari. While some tourists enjoy the show, the tradition actually has roots in an old belief that taking care of the hyenas would result in peace and prosperity for the city.
A Tradition of Tolerance
While it is from here that the Muslim leader, Ahmed Gragn, launched his devastating raids on the Ethiopian highlands in the 16th century and where the Christian King Menelik attacked in 1885, Harar today is an example of religious tolerance for the rest of the world. For more than a hundred years, Muslims and Christians, both Orthodox and Catholic have peacefully and freely worshiped in Harar.
The “Jugal’s” central mosque, Orthodox Church and Catholic Church all stand within a hundred meters of each other. Harar has been awarded the “City of Peace” prize by UNESCO. With over 100 mosques and 102 shrines, Harar is often referred to as the fourth-holiest city in Islam and known in Arabic as Madeenat-ul-Awliya (the City of Saints).
